Building my lofts, 1 & 2 This page updated 3/ 10/ 11
My first Loft
My search for a loft design, began on the Internet. And after searching for weeks on end. I came across a pigeon loft website that offered for FREE, the complete design layout, drawing, pictures and list of building materials needed. Perfect, for a non-carpenter like me. (Later, I was to discover this same design file, offered on one of the pigeon supply websites. Except they wanted, I think it was $15 to send you the info. What some people won‘t do to make a buck.) After reading all through the information about this small starter loft. I found that anyone could build and configure this design to suit their own needs/ birds they wanted to raise. As you’ll see, it is a design for a small racing loft, but you could us it for any type of breed you’d like to start with. So here is what I built (with the help of a friend), and how I made a few design changes, for the type of loft I was wanting. (See "Starting a Loft" for this info.)
As you will see, it is a 4'w x 8'L x 7'h, small shed type. I divided it into two 4' x 4' sections. The first section in the door, for roosting with V purchase, the second section for breeding with 8 breeding boxes on one wall. The outside flight cages, are each a 4' cube, for sun and bathing, as well as for release of the birds.
I was later to decide this just wasn't large enough and doubled the size, by adding onto the back side another 4' x 8' area, by just moving the back wall out 4' and continuing the dividing partition on through the middle of the unit. Now making this loft an 8 x 8 square, with two 4 x 8 sections. And usable (if need be) for another breeding loft. But for now, just a good loft to move squeakers over to, as well as use to divide up hens from cocks as the young matured.
I repeat, PIGEON LOFTS ARE NEVER BIG ENOUGH, so plan big or have the ability to enlarge your design when the time comes.
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My Second Loft
Bitten by the bug, I still had space left in my garden plot.., why not add another loft ? My second loft is an 8' x 12' double entry on one end type shed. Built on your site by the Taylor Co. of mini-barns. It was a great idea, it only took them two hours, from start to finish. I chose to have the door end facing my first lofts door, for easy access. And of course I had to do the painting and inside design carpentry work myself.
Being 8' x 12', works out well to have three 4'x 8' sections. With chicken wire dividers and doors leading from one compartment to the next. The first two sections I made for breeding and built into the back wall, two rows of 24" sq. breeding boxes in each compartment. With the remainder of the back wall under the breeding boxes for extra roosting shelves. The last and third section I planed for extra cocks/ un-sexed birds. Or for separation of the sexes out of breeding season in winter.
On the front wall, I made cut-outs for windows in the upper portions of each section, as well as a cut-out for a hanging trap door (the wood of which is kept to hinge at the top, w/ a hanging rope to raise and lower as a trap, when left open 4". The birds soon learn to lean down and forward, pressing the hanging wood open just enough to drop down and gain entry.) and an air vent beneath that for good air circulation upwards to the roof vents. All window openings of both lofts are covered w/ Plexiglas, for a constant light source during the day, keeping out wind and rain.
Each section has it’s own outside flights (each one, being 4'w x 3'd x 4'h) and are covered with ½’’ hardware wire/ cloth, top and sides as well as floors. This type of small wire keeps out any small / large feral birds / small animals (like at night stray cats, Raccoons or Opossums). And the lower air vents (just off the floors) are covered from the interior with ¼” hardware cloth too. No mice or snakes wanted here!! With this idea in mind, I can keep my lofts open 24/7 so the birds can come and go at will (w/ the exception of the human doors) through the trap openings. Should the weather turn very bitter in winter, or I wish to trap-in birds for any reason in any section. All I need to do is lower/ close the one piece hanging trap doors (under the windows), for re-entry of the birds from the outside / prevent any from leaving that section.
(PLEASE NOTE: Some loft owners have found to their surprise, that some hawks, owls, raccoons and such, can and do sometimes bite through the fine wire of 'chicken wire'. Thus gaining entry during their search for food. I therefore highly suggest , that you take care and cover any open areas w/ either a heavier wire / a wire that these animals can not get their beaks / teeth onto, to snap open enough to gain entry to your birds day or night. Heavier wire may cost more and be a bit harder to work with, but you will find it much better insurance at the beginning, than to find missing / half eaten birds the next time you visit your loft.)